This is so beautiful now and exhibits real aged-Bordeaux character with currant-bush, tobacco and berry aromas that follow through to a medium body with firm tannins and a creamy finish. Still so together. The finish turns to cigar box, sandalwood and berry. Drink or hold.

A week after tasting it from bottle, I re-tasted the 1985 Lafite-Rothschild from imperial. This has greater purity on the nose, perhaps less sauvagewith vivacious red fruit, though cedar and allspice traits still come through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with those same pliant tannins that lend this First Growth such fluidity. This is not powerful—it is Lafite not Latour—but it is beautifully balanced with hints of black truffle and pencil shavings towards the finish.