This definitely represents a new beginning for the Clos des Lambrays, beginning with a dizzying array of aromas that range from high-toned red fruits to ripe, plummy black fruit, all touched with spice, and a suggestion of wild herbs and fresh flowers. After blending there was an average of 80% whole cluster fermentation. The texture on the palate is concentrated but not heavy, and there is a charming, silky aspect to it so, despite the tannin and density, the overall impression is one of finesse and elegance.

Jacques has gone with 80% whole bunch and 60% new wood, whereas Thierry Brouin preferred 50% new wood but all of it from François Frères. Jacques has varied his barrel coopers a little more and paid extra attention to the chauffe. We tasted almost all the cuvées and there were radical differences depending on location and vine age. What matters though will be the final blend, of which Jacques prepared me what should be an accurate version. A fine deep and even crimson. Complex bouquet as you might expect after tasting all the components. There is a serene weight to this, with waves of detail. A richer fruit perhaps than before and though the whole bunch percentage is 80% it is much more submerged in the fruit. Starting to get some aromatic top notes, very persistent. Neither acid nor tannins standing out, more the fruit but with a sense of a refined structure too. Very beautiful complex, perfumed finish. I am not going to say that Jacques has gone straightaway back to the great vintage of the ‘20s and ‘30s but there is very considerable promise here.