The 2018 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre is a terrific success, unfurling in the glass with aromas of crisp orchard fruit, white flowers, confit citrus and oatmeal. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and complete, it’s fleshy and seamless, with fine depth at the core, racy acids and a long, expansive finish. After several years where this site bore the brunt of hail and frost, Montée de Tonnerre is back with a vengeance.